Today started with a very heavy (2000 kg at least!) mist covering everything inside and out in a sticky dampness, it was the first time the inner tent had been wet with condensation despite me asking Janet to not breathe last night. The proximity of the sea, dead still air and a rapidly dropping night time temperature all conspired to give us this mist.

A lonely tree

Today we had intentionally left only 44 km to cycle, the forecast was easterly winds and sure enough we soon had the wind blowing directly at us, fortunately it was not too strong but it was still a constant irritation, similar to a year 7 asking if it’s ok to turn over the page.

It was also time for another tree, this was the “Teddy Bear Tree” all say aaahhh, it is better than the others though.

Teddy bear tree

As we progressed the scenery changed, fewer and fewer trees grew until eventually no trees could be seen by the time we neared the Nullarbor Roadhouse, hence the name Nullarbor which means “treeless”.

As we love bonuses, Terry stopped his car on the opposite carriageway and gave us a nice large bag of fresh apples, thank you, what a bonus.

Soon we arrived at the Roadhouse, situated in a treeless expanse of flat plain. It cost $20 to camp and in common with the majority of roadhouses did not have a decent tent spot, we just pitched our tent next to the picnic tables under the lonely tree. The showers are $1 for 4 mins and clean. Water to drink, you purchase as very expensive bottles of mineral water or 10 litres for $1 from a pump, this is desalinated water.

Treeless for sure, the roadhouse is in the background

Proof of the treelessness

There are very large aquifers underground here but they only have a very thin layer if any at all now of fresh water the rest being a brine water hence desalination is needed. Water does have a taste and bland is it.

Our tent in the middle of what is a carpark

We saw a French couple just leaving the roadhouse on their bicycles cycling west to Perth, we chatted a short while then waved them on their way (they are on a tight time schedule, no looking at anything).

Speaking to the staff at the roadhouse there have been 8 whales today around the Bight, this is where we are off to tomorrow specifically to see the Southern Right Whale. We are excited about this.

Food at the roadhouse was very nice, good portions but one of the more expensive of the ones visited so far. Whilst eating a Dingo wandered across the front of the forecourt, around the size and shape of a very large fox.

The sun vanishes and the day is over